Rome is SO different from Florence. Not only are the two hugely different symbols of Italy (one of antiquity and one of renaissance), they exude completely opposite contemporary personalities. Yes, cities have personalites. Florence, a city famous for the global reawakening it bore, is historically different from Rome, a city that basically exemplifies the FIRST time anyone woke up (hello, ancient Romans; they kind of started everything).

The most obvious difference though, is the relationship between cars and people in the two cities. It's really important, ok? In Florence, the people rule the streets (there are many pedestrian-only roads) In Rome, it is a constant battle for street power. Really. Every time you cross the street in Rome, even on crosswalks, cars DO NOT slow down until they almost hit you (though they never actually do). The more confident you appear while walking across the street the better and sooner the cars will slow to a stop. If you are strapped for ideas on how to feign the intimidating pedestrian (oxymoron) demeanor, look to Maximus. I mean, when in Rome do as... Russell Crowe does.

Casually walked by the National Monument of Victor Emmanuel II

ANYWAY, I heard the Pantheon of Rome was pretty important as far as domes go (laugh here if you are as immature as I am). It inspired the Duomo of Florence, which was later used as a model to make The Capital dome in Washington DC. I meant to walk only to the Pantheon and accidentally passed...everything. One of the awesome things about Rome all the important stuff is where you can SEE IT. The city is the relic. It’s amazing.

The Pantheon of Rome, built in 126 AD, and STILL
the largest unreinforced concrete dome in the world

Raphael's tomb

After the Pantheon, seeing Rafael’s tomb and listening to Rick Steves on my ipod cheesily explain it all , I stumbled upon Giolitti Gelateria. Gelato had been serving as my lunch for the past few days, so I figured why not another day to further my spiral into malnutrition? This place was PACKED and hectic, so I liked it immediately. Most of the best places to eat in Italy are full, loud and confusing. The place did not disappoint; it was definitely the best gelato I had in Rome.

Awwww proposal on the Spanish Steps!!

Rome

The next day, I got to check into the hotel where I would meet my mom that night. Rome’s heat is OPPRESSIVE and the state of my bank account was/is feeble, so I spent a lot of time in the air-conditioned hotel, waiting for my mom to arrive at night. When she finally arrived, I was so happy to see her and finally have a travel mate. 

We started early with heavy touring the next day, giving my mom’s jetlag no time to manifest itself. For a Jew mother-daughter reunion, I decided the Vatican was the perfect place to start our trip. The irony joke was on me, however, because the religious theme of the Vatican takes a clear backseat to the collection of art and sculpture there. I was obviously looking forward to the Sistine Chapel and the painting of the Last Judgement, but The Pietá and the School of Athens??? I was blown away by the collection of significant art there.

The School of Athens by Raphael!

The Pieta by Michelangelo

For the second half of the day, my mom and I went to the Spanish Steps and The Trevi Fountain (just as striking, and crowded, as everyone describes). 

Making my wish at the Trevi Fountain 

For dinner, we ate possibly the best dinner I have ever had in my life. I found La Taverna dei Fori Imperiali online and because a party had less people than they expected, my mom and I were able to eat there. Yes, this place was packed. Foreshadowing.

We had melon and prosciutto and artichokes alla Romana to start. For dinner, we ordered two specials: linguine with pomodoro and lobster and gnocchi with veal, truffle oil and parmesano. It wouldn't be Italy if we didn´t have an amazing red wine to accompany the feast. This meal was INCREDIBLE. While taking my first bite of the buttery, truffle infused gnocchi with strong parmesano cheese, as soon as I became ecstatic that I had the rest of the plate left, I was immediately devastated at the possibility that I will never eat something so delicious again. THAT is what Italy can do to you.

Melon and prosciutto: weird, yet delicious

Gnocchi with veal, parmeasno and truffle sauce. One of the best things I have ever eaten

Mama and I at our favorite restaurant in Italy

Casually walking by the Coliseum at night

Wearing all black in June was a great choice

From Rome, it was off to Pompeii to see MORE incredibly preserved relics. Besides the ancient city of Pompeii, the rest of the area leaves a lot to be desired: a few restaurants, a lot of campsites and some cheesy souvenir shops. Our hotel, however, certainly made up for what the city lacked, most notably with its recommendation of Machiavelli, an (of course) italian restaurant for dinner. We got to enjoy some amazing caprese bruschetta, shrimp and pea risotto, swordfish, tiramisu, and delicious white wine. The food coma was worth it.

The sexiest bruschetta you've ever seen  

Shrimp and pea risotto

            The next day, we went to the impressively well-preserved Pompeii ruins. The town was partially destroyed in 79 AD by the volcanic eruption of Mt. Vesuvius, but instead of completely destroying the buildings, the ash served as a preservative until the site was rediscovered in 1599, then completely unearthed in 1748. The most impressive part of Pompeii are the detailed plaster casts of the victims, showing body positions and facial expressions of the victims moments before their death (ALMOST 2,000 YEARS AFTER IT HAPPENED!!). 

Pompeii

Plaster cast of a victim from the eruption of Vesuvius in AD 79

By around noontime, my mom and I were already tired out, so we decided to make a trip to Sorrento, a beautiful, albeit touristic, town on the Amalfi coast. My mom and I walked around to the shops, got a drink at the pier (ok, I got a drink; she got lemonade) and stopped in at Il Pozzo restuarante for dinner. I liked Sorrento, but after visiting so many amazing Italian cities, it didn't really measure up. Sorry, Sorrento! No offense.

Sorrento!

On the next day, my final day in Italy, I was happy to see what I had heard was the most "authentic" city in Italy before departing: NAPLES. Supposedly, this city is run by the mafia, which I imagine causes a lot of problems. Napoli seems to go through a roulette of urban complications, the most recent one being the city is full of trash. Yes, literal trash. Why? The dumps are full. The government Whoever is in charge can't seem to figure out how to the fix this highly complicated problem.

So, is it weird that I kind of loved this place? Not only was it far less touristic than anywhere else I had been in Italy, it had this raw, and yes, a little bit of a dangerous atmosphere. Naples is Italy in its purest, most unadulterated form: some trashy women with fake Louis Vouitton belts, incredible food, vibrant streets with great shopping, and men with a complete and total lack of discretion. 

Castel Nuovo in Naples

I have to admit, though, enjoying UNQUESTIONABLY the best pizza I have had in my life also helped contribute to my love for Naples.

Pizza at Da Michele (yup, the one from Eat, Pray, Love) in Naples

BEST PIZZA IN THE WORLD

Riding on the train back to Rome to take a plane back to Madrid, I felt a little nostalgic to be leaving. Even though I didn't get to every great city in Italy, I did a pretty good job of covering the widths and lengths of The Boot and, like most people Americans, fell in love with the Italian culture and FOOD. 

Oh and p.s. I am now morbidly obese.