Basque Country: The sort-of-Spain region

The Basque country. Ever heard of it? Don´t feel bad. How about ETA? The separatist terrorist group from the north of Spain (AKA the Basque region)? Unfortunately, this is the first thing a lot people they think of when they head to Basque country, even though only about 5% of the country has even the desire for the region to become an autonomous country, and far less that contribute to the ETA´s vandalistic and violent tactics, not to mention that these events are very rare anyway. Clearly, you should throw away any preconceived notions you have about Northern Spain (as if you had any, unless you studied abroad in Spain) and adopt all my thoughts and conclusions on everything Basque.

Natalie, Allie and I arrived to Bilbao airport (with our 45 euro return flight! WIN) and immediately took a bus to go to San Sebastian, a popular beachfront city an hour from Bilbao. I had never heard of San Sebastian until a year previous, when my friend, Justin, studied abroad there. You know the feeling when you first find out about something, and after that you continually hear about it? Yeah. That happened.  Everyone in Spain has been telling me for months “Hay que ir a San Sebastian.” One very important thing I have learned while being my own travel agent is: if everyone talks about a site or a city, it truly is worth visiting and NO, you are not hip/special/a trailblazer/etc. if you avoid the touristy places; you are simply missing out on something awesome. I digress.

On the drive from Bilbao to San Sebastian

Basically any spaniard will agree the food in Northern Spain is the best in the country. In a country where cooking and eating are a way of life, this region best exemplifies the importance of spending a night over a good set of tapas (which they call pinxtos), friends, and a glass of wine.

“San Sebastian is food town” -Anthony Bourdain

If the god of food doesn´t convince you, maybe the pictures will.

Fried Calamari

Mushroom Risotto. Deliciousness can't really be explained in words.

Roasted goat-cheese with fig compote. One of the best things I have ever eaten

Roasted beef cheek. SO GOOD.

Carmelized onion, sun dried tomato and brie on a sesame tostada

Delicious thick clam stew of sorts 

Ham, shrimp, anchovies, peppers manchego cheese, etc.

Tomatoes, shrimp, baby eels, etc.

Oh right, dessert.

We broke up the eating with a funicular ride to the top of Mount Urgull, enjoying sand between our toes, and a hike up the Jesus statue in old town. In all honesty, eating is the most important thing to do in this town, so we quickly went back to that.

On top of Mont Urgull

Natalie being offensive.

Natalie and Allie on La Concha beach

San Sebastian. Kind of beautiful

At night we met up with another girl from our program, Deidre, who happened to be in San Sebastian as well. We gossiped for hours then met some Germans and talked about more legitimate things. The alcohol killed any filter Natalie and I may have had originally and we started talking to two of the Germans about that topic nobody will let go. Yup, that whole thing Hitler thing. One of their grandfathers was in the SS during WWII and the other´s wasn´t old enough to serve, so he was an active member of the Hitler Youth. Having these uncomfortable conversations with people almost directly connected to the history reminded me that I do, in fact, like studying political science. Also, although  technically could have had this conversation in America, it reminded me how grateful I am for having the option of going abroad for a year. 

People are serious about the whole eating/socializing thing here

Natalie, Allie and Deidre with the famous Cidra of San Sebastian

The next day we decided we should eat some more… and we did. We broke up the eating with a trip to the aquarium and a nap on the beach.

The old town of San Sebastian

Octopus that they let you touch!

Aquarium of San Sebastian

We took the bus to Bilbao that night (and I DIDN´T throw my ticket in the locked trash just before getting on the bus this time! Not that I didn't do that two days before…), and our settled into our hostel that was deceptively far from the only area of interest in Bilbao, the Guggenheim. Fail. Nonetheless, I made Natalie and Allie walk to the museum the next day because I am an evil dictator/felt like we should all do a little more walking than usual since we had just eaten a lifetime’s worth of food the past two days.

The museum (more so the outside than the outside) was AMAZING and there was a free audio-guide! Always exciting. After getting in a big dose of culture, we walked to the old-town to get some delicious, cheap seafood.

The "heart" of the Guggenheim in Bilbao

Yes, this IS real.

I hate to knock Bilbao, but… the Guggenheim is all it has going for it (keep in mind that the Guggenheim is SOOOO COOL). It’s a fairly ugly city and the insane amount of yearly rainfall does not make for favourable touring conditions. That, mixed with our previous days in San Sebastian gave Bilbao quote an unfair disadvantage in my judgement. It is certainly worth a side trip, but nothing more. All in all, I was so happy to visit an area of Spain I had heard about so much and it definitely met all my high expectations.