Tuesday, September 28, 2010

Una Corrida

No, corrida does not, in any way, mean Oktoberfest in Spanish. I am holding on to THAT story for a later post (if only to keep you reading).

Therefore:

Warning: Some content in the below entry is graphic and may not be suitable for young audiences. 


On the Sunday before last, I went to my first (and let's be honest, last) Bullfight. Anyone that has ever attended a Boston University tour, the Shelagh edition (which is none of you), knows that BU has this cultural reimbursement thing. If you do something "cultural" then you can get reimbursed up to 7 euros for it (about $10). Only one of these activities can be used a bullfight. Maybe the programmers do this because they are on the "No es cultura es tortura" (it's not culture, it's torture) side of the Bull-fighting argument, I don't know. Whatever the case, I am kind of glad that they do. Bullfights are weird.

You probably think you are familiar with bullfights. I can't speak for everyone, but I was under the impression that they killed a bull or too at a bullfight. Well, that is partly true. They kill 6 bulls. The entire thing lasts about 3 hours. We left after 2 hours because, well, would YOU want to watch the same performance 6 times? Four was all we could handle.  

Please believe me when I say I am by no means an animal rights activist. I love meat. I will never be a vegetarian (I am impressed by vegetarians, but I could never be one). I am not even that nice. HOWEVER, when the first bull came into the ring (la plaza) and looked around confusedly at the hundreds watching, with no idea it was to be stabbed and slaughtered, I felt bad for the guy. I ALMOST got teary. My friend Natalie might try to tell you I DID have tears in my eyes. She's a liar.

This viejo and I became fast friends after he asked me if I was from England (honored he didn't assume I was American).
He taught me everything I never wanted to know about Bullfights (in Spanish!)
Bullfights go a little something like this:
  • The original prossesion comes out, with the matadores, torreros (matador lackeys), picadores ('picar' literally means to cut or chop), and some important looking people. 
  • The first bull comes out, looks around a while, then the torreros wave their  PINK(!!) "capotes" at the bull. They are not hardcore at all because they stand on the edge of the ring and hide behind these partitions when the bull starts running after them. 
  • After that, the matador comes out and does some cute little dances that are quite well-received, especially given their tight little suits.
  • The bull gets pretty angry, as expected, and usually runs at the picadores on horseback. When the bull runs into the horses, the picadores stab them in attempts to make them go away. The horses have coverings over their eyes, so they never know when a bull is about to charge them. The horses are usually physically fine; they have a really thick mattress sort-of covering over their body.  HOWEVER, according to some Enyclopedia Brittanica info I stumbled upon:
"Prior to 1930, the horse did not wear any protection, and the bull would usually disembowel the horse during this stage. Until this change was instituted, the number of horses killed during a fight was higher than the number of bulls killed." I think I may go vomit now. 
  • Then, three 'banderilleros' plant 2 'bandillas,' which look like long piñatas... but with spears at the end (this toy not suited for children), each on on the bull's back to weaken it.  
  • The matador then comes out with a sword and the cape and does some more little dances. The capes are red, but it doesn't matter, since bulls are colorblind. Hurrah to useless information! Finally, the matador spears the bull in between the shoulder blades to pierce the bull through the heart and (finally) kill it.
Despite my discomfort through 'la corrida', I am glad I went. It may be torture, but it IS culture as well. It is something every student in Madrid should see at least one, if only for the cute matadores.




"There's one American woman down here now that collects bull-fighters."
Ernest Hemingway The Sun Also Rises 

Tuesday, September 21, 2010

Los Sentimientos

If you are too lazy to google translate it, it means feelings.

This title is kind of a lie. Sorry. Instead of talking about feelings, I will talk about divergent characteristic between the lovely USA and the lovelier (sorry founding fathers and Obama and stuff, love you guys) España and you can infer how I feel about them. 

Peeing (sorry Mom, Dad, grandparents, polite people)

There is this unwritten rule that you can't let your kids pee openly on the beach after they turn 5-years-old, right? Good, we agree- but WAS IT EVER OKAY TO LET YOUR KIDS PEE ON THE STREET OR IN PUBLIC PARKS? Apparently, in Spain it is. 
  • Example 1: Natalie and I saw a mom inverting her child forward to pee at El Parque de Buen Retiro. This kid was probably 6. 
  • Example 2: The following day, I guess anther madre wanted to one up the previous example and allowed her daughter to drop trou on the side of Calle Serrano (the equivalent to your Newbury street or 5th avenue). 
While I knew Europeans were lax about nudity, I had no idea they were so open about nudity AND bodily excretions.

Unfortunately I don't have pictures of these events, not because I am a sensitive or classy, but because I did not have la cámara in my possession. 

Bumping and Grinding

Get your mind out of the gutter. 

I am talking about people bumping into you on the street. Americans are always walking on eggshells to please each other. If I bump into someone on the street I apologize to the victim as many times as I possibly can, averaging 3 "sorry's" per bump. 
Madrileños will bump into you, hard, and continue walking as if nothing happened. They certainly are not doing it to be unkind or aggressive. I am sure every person that has bumped into me has done so on accident. They are not in a hurry, they just do not see the need to say anything. It is kind of refreshing since, really, what good does saying sorry do in situations like this? Call me insensitive (well, I am, but that is beside the point), but I like it. 

Kissing

Get your mind out of the gutter again. 

You know about the double kisses on the cheek. You are probably thinking Italy or France right now. Well, give Spain some credit too. They love their cheek-kissing greeting just as much. Our program directors warned us about this, going as far as acting out an American introduction and then a Spanish one. I REALLY wish I had caught a video of this occasion but alas, I did not. 

I guess I thought people did not actually do this. Well, they DO. I learned and reviewed this the hard way.

Example 1: I meet my host sister's boyfriend. He starts to approach me, I suppose to shake my hand, so I immediately extend my arm in a typical cheerleader fashion. He continues to lean forward, sees my hand, and shakes it. Oh, he was going for the kisses. I see now.

Example 2: I meet my host brother. He starts to approach, I suppose to shake my hand, so I immediately extend my arm in a typical cheerleader fashion. He continues to lean forward, sees my hand, bypasses it, and gives me one kiss on each cheek. Oh, he was going for the kisses. I see now.

Hopefully next time I can get it right.

I will talk about Public displays of affection, smoking, and food later. Stay tuned!

Saturday, September 18, 2010

I AM HERE

 I am sorry I have been negletting what I am sure are hoards of readers, but I was trying to make my first week of Spain completely techy-free. I COMPLETELY failed on that front and frequented Facebook, Twitter, and Spanish celebrity gossip pages on Google (at least they were in Spanish, right???).

Warning: This post is entirely too long. I will allow you to break it up into two reading sessions.

Here goes the SparkNotes (©Kellyn comment) version of my life the past 9 days.

Thursday: Arrive at JFK, meet a bunch of people on our trip at the gate, go on the plane, manage to sit next to Natalie, enjoy coach (sarcasm? yup.), go on the bus to Hotel Regina at Plaza del Sol, random girl who turns out to be totally awesome asks Natalie and I to room with her, we have chicken and french fries for dinner (DONT THESE PEOPLE KNOW WE ARE TRYING TO GET AWAY FROM AMERICAN CULTURE? Whatever, it was free. Can't complain too much).
My whole life for 10 months is limited to the contents of these bags. Que Horror. 
Friday: Free Breakfast! Then we had what we all agreed was the most intensive Intro-to-life-in-Madrid session imaginable- classes, travel, Instituto (the place where we will be taking classes) rules, home-stay rules and everything in between. We got Tapas in the typical Madridleño fashion that night then went to a club called Commo that felt eerily similar to a Frat party (NOT A BU ONE, mind you, this one actually had a majority of people with both the X and Y chromosomes!)

Saturday- We pack all our stuff (or lack there of- I don't know how I am going to live off this for 10 months) and went to our home-stay in cabs. To give you a ballpark figure, it was definitely one of the top 20 most nerve-racking moments of my whole life. I rang the door bell and met Remedios, my host mother. She is really tiny and cute and the apartment is HUGE. I think there are 7 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms a kitchen, a dining area, and a living area. I found out there were 3 other girls living there too but they are not returning for another week from a Spain trip. I also find out I DO, in fact, have a Spanish "padre" and he is a hunter which is why the hallway is lined with 60-70 deer horns (Not an exaggeration). At night, Natalie, our new friend, and I walked around the city for "La Noche en Blanco" (The White Night), which is a festival of sorts in Madrid which runs all night. All the museums stay open and it was ENTIRELY EXHAUSTING. We went home really early (12:30ish) and it was thoroughly embarassing. Whatevs. Blame it on the jet-lag.
One of the first things I saw upon entrance to my new home. Tantos cuernos. Good thing I am not a PETA person.
Monday- Real life starts! I like to shop around, so I went to every class (which really confused my fellow students) and decided on Translation, the Contemporary Spanish Novel, A Cervantes class, and Contemporary Spanish Politics. All of my classes are completely in Spanish. It is a little overwhelming.

Tuesday-Thursday: Pretty Standard. Class. Fixed my international phone. Found out my Spanish family and home-stay are awesome and they have a house on a farm in the country-side, etc. Went to a club full of Americans on Wednesday and got a free T-shirt. Kind of made my night.

Thursday night- Bought my FIRST BOTTLE OF LIQUOR IN A GROCERY STORE!!!! Such a special moment. Then... EL KAPITAL CLUB. Ridiculous. Got in for free (saving 20 Euros)  In a nutshell Kapital= good-looking people, 7 floors, Karaoke, descending dry ice, poles, mayhem.

Friday- Myself and 6 other Americans take on El Museo de Reina Sofia. I apologize to the modern art lovers of the world, but I only appreciated the Picasso stuff. Ever heard of Guernica? Yeah. Saw that. If I had emotions, I definitely would have felt something. At night we went to El Parque de Buen Retiro, ate cheese and bread and drank wine like good ex-pats should.
So beautifully overwhelming in person. Photo barely does it justice. 
Saturday- YAY TODAY! Natalie and I took on the bottom floor of the Prado and failed. There are too many amazing things to see there. Good thing we get free tickets (thanks BU abroad programs!). The Goya dark paintings room is BY FAR my favorite. Saw Saturno devorando a su hijo, La romeria de San Isidro, Dos viejos comiendo... so amazing. THEN we went to the zoo with about 12 people from our program. As expected, it was full of crying children, poop, smells, etc. Hilights= dolphin show, flamingos, bears, spanish warning signs.
La Romería de San Isido (Francisco de Goya)
...y los flamencos at the Madrid Zoo. A day in the life...
And here I am. I am getting used to this whole Madrid thing. It is a lot to get used to. I will talk about feelings Monday, promise.

Friday, September 10, 2010

(5) A few more of my favorite things...


I decided to save the obvious for last. I AM a Spanish major, so it is fitting that the language would be one of my favorite things about living in Spain for 10 months.

Favorite thing #9: La lengua (La lang-gwa)

There are TOO many quirks about the Spanish language with which I am completely in love to list, so I will just explain one for now.

How do you say Language in Spanish ? La lengua
How do you say Tongue in Spanish? La Lengua

Wait, what?

Yes, language and tongue are the same word in the lovely Español.  Google translate test it if you don’t believe me. You may argue that we can use “tongue” to mean language in English. Valid. Do you know anyone that use “tongue” to mean language? I don’t either. Sorry for your failed rebut. Let’s get back to my point, though. As a romance language, the tongue is heavily required to speak Spanish (I will NOT make a pun here about my use of “mi lengua” in Spain), so it is fitting that what you use to speak is marked by the same word as the speech itself. Even saying it- lengua (Lang-gwa)- you can feel how necessary the tongue is. Furthermore, I LOVE the complete disregard of political correctness (come on, kids; you know what I am talking about. Everything ends with an ‘o’ or an ‘a’ depeneding on if it has a male or female connotation).  Ahhh, me encanta español.

Tuesday, September 7, 2010

(4) A few more of my favorite things...

Live free or die- the motto I have lived by since I was born a lengthy quarter of a mile from my home in Derry, NH (you would think I would end up NOT living in Spain for year with this type of beginning).

While I don't think Madrid has a motto quite like this, it does seem to have a simple set of directions: eat, sleep, drink, party, repeat (Yes, I will study and read, but it's no fun to include that). As you can see, all of these, ahem, tasks, have been analyzed in my previous posts except for 'eat'. Well, then- it's time to talk about eating! Wait. No. Not eating... dining.

Favorite thing #4: La comida (la comb-ee-da)

Even Newsweek recognizes how great Spanish food is:
See the other countries they chose too!
While I am excited for patatas bravas (fried potatoes with spicy tomato sauce), churros con chocolate (real churros, people) and jamón (Spanish ham- no explanation possible, think bliss plus salt. SORRY FELLOW JEWS!), I am more excited for the way I will eat. No, no, no. I will dine- dining has that romantic, European, slowwww sound to it. I am the first to admit I eat to live, not the other way around. I rush in and out of restaurants and eat like it's a race. Seriously. I think my subconscious tells me there are prizes for whoever finishes first. Eating is always last on my to-do list.

This is where the 'No Spain, No gain' part comes in. I will HAVE TO learn to slow down- to take more than ten minutes to eat lunch, to savor, to realize that slowing down can be a good thing. 

Oh, mierda. This is going to be difficult. There's no turning back no, though. T-minus 26 hours and I will be airborne over the Atlantic.

Thursday, September 2, 2010

(3) A few more of my favorite things...

What is the opposite of napping? I guess the closest action would be partying. Either way, Spaniards, particularly Madrileños, are really good at both. This brings be to favorite thing #3 about Spain.


"The fiesta was really started. It kept up day and night for seven days. The dancing kept up, the drinking kept up, the noise went on. "
-Ernest Hemingway, The Sun Also Rises

This probably was taken on a Tuesday







Favorite thing #3: La vida de la noche 
(La Vee-da day la no-chay) Night-life  






To explain why 'la vida de la noche' is so great, I will first give you a rundown of a typical Thursday night 20-year-old American schedule (sans fake ID):

9:00 pm- Prepare to go out 
10:00 pm- arrive at a very shady bar because, duh,
you can't get in anywhere else
10:10 pm- Finish begging the bouncer to let you 
in and abort mission
10:30- Head home, pound some Rubinoff and 
dining-hall cranberry juice 
11:00 pm- Arrive at the party of the roommate of 
the girl that sits next to you in cultural anthro
12:00 pm- Police arrive, sub-21's flee to insert name
of your university's quintessential pizza spot
1:00 am- Arrive home. Your night is over.

Now, let's review a typical Thursday night 20-year-old Spaniard (or American ex-patriate!) schedule (sans fake ID):  
10:00 pm- Prepare to head to your local botellón (you know what this is!)
11:00 pm- Arrive at Botellón. Share stories, alcohol, etc. with a thousand others.
12:30 am- Arrive at first bar and obviously get in. {Let's call the non-existent drinking age in Spain favorite thing 3.5 because I did not want to be a silly American girl and give it its own post} 
2:30 am- Arrive at crazy club filled with good-looking foreign men
5:00 am- Arrive at after hours club to hang out with... good-looking foreign men
7:00 am- Arrive home. Wasn't that AWESOME?




Ask anyone that has ever been to Spain and they will tell you... 
THOSE MADRILEÑOS 
CAN PARTY. 
Hopefully the bottom schedule is accurate foreshadowing. Stay tuned for epic tales.