Sunday, May 29, 2011

Old and new


Whether you love or are not so fond of being around them, you have surely spent a day with a member with this special group of people. They get over-excited about everything, they think you are the greatest no matter what you do, they ask “why” far too much, and to us, semi-adults, they seem to have some very silly ideas about the world. Yes, I am talking about parents. A few weeks ago, my Dad came to Europe… for the FIRST TIME in his life.

My dad is not a homebody by any means. He’s ridden his bike across the country, skis basically every weekend, and power-washes my house for fun. I won’t waste my time making conjectures on why he is never been to the continent of culture (please try to argue with me that it isn’t), but his lack of Euro-experience, especially in the Spain department, was very evident immediately upon arrival.

“I can’t believe how clean the roads are! This is nothing like Dominica”

Yes, he meant the Dominican Republic. Does the United States=Australia because we speak the same language? No, father. No, it does not. Therefore, Spain ≠ Dominican Republic ≠ Mexico ≠ (insert country that speaks Spanish here). I couldn’t help how absolutely furious I became at the questions and comments my dad made confusing Spain with every country that it wasn’t. He seemed to think we were in Mexico the whole time. When he made the mental switch that we were in Europe, it seemed he thought we were in Italy or France.

If his comments were not American enough, he also he wore a backpack... in public. He wore jean shorts. He wore sneakers. He was the definition of embarrassing-american-parent-in-Europe. It was actually funny how horrified I was.

At the same time though, it was very cute. Being with my dad and his fiancé Susan (yes, my mom’s name is Susan as well- so silly) was like being with children. Every beautiful cathedral, palace, cobblestone street or garden was the most beautiful thing they had ever seen. For me, it was another beautiful thing I was seeing- a garden as beautiful as the Tuileries, a cathedral almost as impressive as la Sagrada Familia, a palace as grand as Buckingham.

Although we did not save any money by driving to Granada, we got some amazing views of the mountains and landscapes along the way.


When we arrived, we found our hotel (A HOTEL!!!!) was literally right next to the Alhambra (A huge moorish palace built in the 14th century and the most visited site in Spain). While I thought getting tickets a few days before would be fruitful, it most certainly was not. I had heard they reserve about 200 tickets for the day of the visit. The problem with this was that you had to get in line at about 4AM and wait for 3 hours to get them. Fine. I was not about to miss the friggen Alhambra. My dad did not like this idea, so he brought me around to everyone in the area, telling me to say useful things to them in Spanish in hopes of getting three tickets. When we went to the information desk, the secretary informed me a travel agency had just told them they had 10 extra tickets for the following day for 20Euro each, even though the original cost was $13. WIN. We found the agent around the corner, got the tickets and proceeded to NOT wake up at 4AM the next day.

We spent 6 hours at the Alhambra and we definitely would have stayed longer if our ticket allowed it (the tickets give you a time slot in terms of entering the different sections). 



Some awesome grafiti in Granada
Very tiny section of the Alhambra
Gardens in La Alhambra


The landscape is fairly well maintained.
After a little nap, in honor of it being Easter, we went to the Catheral of Granada and the Chapel where Ferdinand and Isabella are buried. I tried to warn my dad how legit Spanish Cathedrals are, but he again did not take my word on European awesomeness. At dinner that night, they asked for ketchup. Horrifying.
Cathedral of Granada
We spent the next two days in Madrid and I brought Susan and Steven to my favorite restaurant, Lateral, which they absolutely LOVED (duh, everyone does). It put my Dad in a good enough mood to buy a second bottle of wine and if you know my Dad, you know he usually doesn’t buy a first one. The next morning I took them to La Chocolatería de San Gines for churros and planned their days for them. They were both very upset about losing their Spanish-speaker for the next couple days.

When we met back up at night, they raved about how beautiful the city is and I couldn’t help but swell with pride. Having visitors at this point in my time here makes me realize how truly at home I feel here. I almost feel as good when someone praises Madrid as when they do Boston. Having my Dad here, having someone that is SO UTTERLY American visit, made me realize that maybe I am not as wildly Americana as I thought.

The second night my Dad visited I finally got a chance to eat dinner at Casa Botín, famous for being a Hemingway favorite, and also as the oldest restaurant in the World. I loved it mainly because the waiters spoke to me in Spanish.

My dad had found a cheap flight to Valencia, so we went the next day. If you have read any other posts, you would no I don’t run into a lot of goof weather. WELL  cheers to finally getting the weather I deserve. When we arrive it was 80 degrees and sunny. BEACH TIME.
The beach in Valencia, Spain!
After enjoying the Beach (and watching my Dad freak out about being on the Mediterannean for the first time), we went to a restaurant I had read about called La Pepica, on the boardwalk. The restaurant specialezed in Paella (which my Dad, nor Susan hade ver heard of) andi t was undoubtedly the best I have ever had. If I remembered my dreams, I would probably dream about it.

Most amazing Paella ever
That night my Dad and I went t to the “City of Arts and Sciences” a super-modern architectural collection of five ‘buildings’ designed by Santiago Calatrava and recently built in 1996.  Incredible.


We went again the next day to see the buildings in the sunlight (they are better at night) and to visit the best aquarium I have ever seen or heard of.


At the Aquarium

Aquarium in Valenciano (re: another language in Spain that I didn't learn in high school/college)
I unfortunately had to go back to the hotel to finish a paper for school, while my Dad and Susan explored Valencia a little more.

The next morning, after the previous night’s return from Valencia, I picked up my Dad and Susan from their hotel to bring them to the Madrid airport. I was sad to say good-bye, but ready to hang out with my host family again and get back to my daily Madrid routine. 

Thursday, May 26, 2011

La Universidad Autónoma de Madrid.

A 5 minute walk to the metro.
15 minute metro ride. I don’t know why they aren’t air conditioned.
A 5 minute walk to Cercanías (the equivalent of the commuter rail)
A 25 minute ride on Cercanías
A 10 minute walk to the Facultad de derecho
And then I get to the LOVELY BEAUTIFUL ORGANIZED HEAVENLY UAM, minus the lovely beautiful and organizd part.

You would think if I had to spend over an hour each way to get to my university it would be worth it right? That the teachers would be organized and responsive? That the classes would be engaging? Wrong. Wrong. Wrong. Wrong. Basically everything about this university has proven to be the bane of my semester. As a celebration of finishing my last final today, I will list why I hate this place so much, using bullet-points to keep you in the academic mindset.
  • Let’s be honest, people only talk about challenges in a positive light AFTER the challenge is over and easier life has resumed. So let’s focus on that:
    • I strain myself for an hour and a half in class.     
      • During this time, all the Spanish students in class talk amongst themselves, making it more difficult to hear when my teacher is talking about the theory of rational collective action in a FOREIGN LANGUAGE.
      • The teachers rarely, if ever, tell them to stop talking.
    • The final exam for my clase de partidos politicos, movimientos sociales y grupos de presión
      • Not only did it cover everything we studied the whole semester (including about 30 written pages of notes and the equivalent of a 400 page book of reading), but there were no posing questions to study for, nor review session, nor did my professor answer any of my questions I emailed to him about the exam.
      • Before the exam, I experienced every type of stress symptom including: disability to sleep, racing heart, sweaty palms, headache, nausea…
      • All of the Spanish students in the class were absolutely freaking out before the exam.
      • Oh, and THE EXAM WAS IN SPANISH AND I AM NOT A NATIVE SPANISH SPEAKER.
  • The teachers are NOT what I am used to.
    • They cancel class about 10% of the time, without previous notice (making me waste 2 hours to go there and back) 
    • One of my fellow BU students had a class where the teacher did not show up for the first 6 weeks for no explicable reason, and then a TA took over the class.
    • Teachers do not have office hours, do not respond to emails, nor even PRETEND to care about their students 
    • They arrive 15-20 minutes late for about half of the classes in the semester.
    • I detest my política de la UE teacher.
      • I went to his office (after literally BEGGING him to meet with me) and he offered to speak English with me. Excuse me, but WHY THE FAHCK DO YOU THINK I GO TO THIS CRAPPY SCHOOL?? To speak English?? NO.
      • When he said a Spanish phrase to me in front of the class and I asked him to repeat what he had said because I couldn’t hear him (no one in class can hear him), he said it in English, I quickly realized what he had said, then he added “it’s a common Spanish phrase”. Ok, fahck you, sir.
      • He forced me to do a theme based on the U.S. for my final paper because I am American
  • The school, physically, looks like a museum of the WORST examples 1970’s architecture. Everything is run-down, ugly, square, and mustard yellow.
  • The Spanish grading system.
    • The Spanish grading system is 1-10 in all schools and universities.
      • A 10 is “sobresaliente” (excellent), an 8 or 9 is “notable” a 5, 6 or 7 is “satisfactorio” and 1-4 is “suspendido” meaning the students have to take that class again. Keep in mind that universities cost a couple thousand euro, if that, a year, so failing a class is not such a problem
      • No one gets 10’s… nor 9’s… nor 8’s. A 7 is basically like an A+, and a 4 or less is failing.
      • Upon looking at the grades from last semester in La facultad de Derecho (The law faculty, my school), that are listed by student name, (which would NEVER happen in America) I see that, in most classes, about half of the students received a “suspendido” grade. GREAT. I wonder how well someone will do that is not fluent in the language in which the classes are held.
      • Spanish students do NOT care about good grades, they are looking to “pass” (aprobar) and nothing more. Spaniards’ ideas of the importance of grades is wildly different than that of Americans’. Therefore, when my teachers tell me “no te preocupes, you will pass” meaning I will get a C or D, this does not make me happy.
      • While MOST abroad students have the luxury of pass/fail grades, I do not. Clearly, our grades should not transfer, yet they do, causing me to be MORE nervous about grades here than back home.
  • Hearing about how academically lax other abroad programs are in comparison really twists the knife.
  • DO NOT even get me started on the “process” (I don’t know if you can call it a process if there is absolutely no order) involved in directly enrolling into this school for the semester.
  • Y EN FIN, despite all this horror, I still have people back home asking “when do you get back to real life?” implying that I am not busting my culo with my 3 classes and 15-hour-a-week internship.
I apologize if you read the whole thing, but hopefully it made you feel better about your life!

The one SINGULAR saving grace that has kept me from my flinging myself off the top of the highest Corte Inglés in the city (apart from knowing I am getting better at Spanish) is my no-credit Spanish for Foreigners class. Why? Well…

  • I am the only American in the class (who doesn’t love being a novelty?) of 30
  • The people in my class are from Brazil, Portugal, France, Czech Republic, Germany, Austria, Italy, Belgium, etc.
  • Because some people in the class don’t speak English, our teacher has no option but to explain things in Spanish.
  • We all get to complain about la UAM together.
  • We learn the phrases that people ACTUALLY say, along with a lot of review in the hardest aspects of Spanish grammar.
  • My teacher is amazing and funny and vulgar (you can never understand how exciting it is to get a dirty joke in a foreign language until you have experienced it yourself).
  • Great moments of class:
    • During our oral presentation, three people from Austira, Belgium and the Czech Republic chose beer as their topic and brought some to show and tell give to everyone in the class
    • Another group talked about drinking culture in different countries and everyone was OBSESSED with learning about American college-drinking culture. 5-minute celebrity status.
And now… it is all OVER. My final exam for la clase de partidos politicos was basically an event in my home-stay. My host-mom, outlawed Pablo (host-brother) playing with his mini soccer ball so that I could study and my impending academic doom was the topic of all dinner conversation for a week prior to the exam.

Immediately after my I finished the test today, my host-mom called to see if it went well and sounded truly relieved when I told her it did. It is impossible to mention the daily events that remind me why making the change to this family was worth it. It suffices to say that change is good. Change is SO good.

Monday, May 9, 2011

Oh my Zeus

The weekend before Semana Santa (translated as “Saint week” AKA Spring Break AKA a name that horrifies politically correct Americans), I decided it would be a good idea to stay in Madrid, especially because Natalie’s friends from Kansas were visiting! Having visitors gives me an excuse to be a tourist in my own city, which positively NEVER gets old.
Since Natalie and I missed out on the IceBar in Barcelona (IceBARcelona), something I am still pissed about, we decided to give the one in Madrid a try. It cost 15 euros to get and entrance comes with a free cocktail with the entrance. I should also mention that they give you a zip up fleece and a poncho to use inside, being that everything is made of ice, they need to keep the room at about O°C. It was actually not as cold as I was expecting nor was the mojito as good as I expected. The experience was fun, but it is questionable whether or not it was worth 15 Euros. Problem: my monetarily-controlled mind is slowly taking over everything I attempt to do for fun. The status of my bank account might have something to do with this as well... #abroadproblems. 


Natalie and her Kansas friends!  

We also had an excuse to revisit some old-favorite restaurants and try a new one. Natalie and I brought her friends to Casa de Granada, a super-secret (and I mean super; it is INCREDIBLY sketchy to reach this place) restaurante that I like to think is a Madrid institution. Note the lady hear playing cards with her table-mates. It is true what they say, Spaniards can take up to 3 hours at dinner... and this is one reason why. 

The guy outside was good looking AND thought I was funny. This made me happy.

We also went to La Bardemcilla, a restaurant owned by Javier Bardem's sister, who herself is a model and actress, but I think looks too much to like her famous sibling to be considered an attractive female. This place claims to have the best croquetas de jamón (basically a potato puree, cheese, and high quality ham mixture quickly battered and fried- they are the spanish version of our mozzarella sticks) in the city, but Estado Puro, a bar at la Plaza de Neptuno, definitely gives them a run for their dinero. 


Sunday of that weekend, my home-stay family invited me to their apartment in El Escorial, a town about 50km away from Madrid (and also the name of a huge palace there built by Phillip II in the 16th century). I had already been to the monastery and palace complex before with the BU program, but it was nice to walk around with my host mom, dad and brother in the hills around the city and relax at their apartment over-looking the mountains. Being with this new host family has been SO AMAZING and the only thing that upsets me about the move is that I didn´t realize earlier that it was possible.
A view of El Monasterio del Escorial and the town
Every 6-year-old in every country is the same.
After a weekend of Madrid and Spain, GREECE-TIME was quickly approaching. To mix things up in this year-long ode to myself blog, I will present our 7 day Greece adventure in Natalie-and-Shelagh-bullet-point-and-plan-out-every-single-pee-break style.



Thursday (14 April  2011)
·       Go to class, spend all day thinking about Greece
Friday
·       12 noon: Depart Madrid Barajas Airport
·       2:30 pm: Arrive Rome Airport (6 hour layover ensures)
·       8:30pm: Depart Rome
·       10:00PM: Arrive in Athens!!!
Saturday
·       2:00AM: Sleep finally happens
·       9:00AM- Painful morning wake-up time
·       10:00AM- Make the long climb up to the Acropolis (Parthenon, Theatre of Dionyses, etc.)
o   Realize that because I am a Spanish Resident and Student, I am and “EU student” and get into all the major sites in Athens for free!!
o   Theatre of Herrod Atticus was SO COOL and Theatre of Dionyses (birth place of Drama) was a bit of a disappointment
o   Parthenon was awesome, but had a lot of construction, detracting from said awesomeness
·       1pm: Head to Piraeus Port to buy ferry tickets and spend a lot more than we planned. Sad times.
·       2pm:  Travel to the island of Hydra (pronounced Ee-dra) for a day
o   Enjoy a truly quiet atmosphere because there are NO cars/motorcycles/mopeds
o   Eat a delicious lunch of lamb sausage
o   Decide that EVERYONE MUST GO TO HYDRA BECAUSE IT IS BEAUTIFUL AND AMAZING
o   9pm: Return to Athens
o   11:30PM: Sleep-time

Theatre of Herrod Atticus, built in 161 AD and seats 5,000 people. The greeks really knew their stuff.
Natalie and I in front of the Parthenon at the Acropolis!
UNHEALTHY OBSESSIONS WITH GREEK SALAD.
Doing the Freddy with a freddo (Greek iced coffee) in hand. Whoever gets the reference gets a piece of Spanish ham.
Cats EVERYWHERE on Hydra
In the top 5 most beautiful places that I have seen since September
Amazing.
Again with the cats
...and again. 

Sunday
o   10AM: Wake up-time
o   11AM: Visit the major disappointment that was The Roman Forum
o   12 noon: Agora (what used to be “town” for the Greeks)
o   1PM: Temple of Olympian Zeus
o   2PM: Acropolis Museum (so awesome!), built over excavated ruins 
o   3PM: Greek Parliament and Tomb of the Unknown Soldier
o   4PM: Failed attempt to visit Benaki Museum (because it closed at 3PM) after an hour search
o   5PM: Get home-made and personally fitted leather sandals (for 28Euro!)
o   6PM: Get some Greek salad and Souvlaki (Meat with tomatoes, onions & pita) on Souvlaki Row near Monasteraki Station
o   9PM: Board our overnight Ferry to Crete (realize we are in the Jack Dawson section of the boat)

A very common site in the side streets of Athens 
Agora!
At "The Poet Sandal-maker" where Natalie and I got our custom-leather sandals!
Monday
o   5:30AM: Arrive to Heraklion, Crete
o   8:30AM: Take the city bus to Knossos, the site of the Minoan Civilization from 7000 BC
o   Kind of a disappointment (the only cool thing was how old the site was)
o   Too many re-creations
o   11AM: Visit the Venetian Fortress… Venetian fortress is closed
o   12AM-4PM: Nap-time because everything is closed in Crete because we are there off-season
o   4PM: Start our 3-hour Heraklion walk. Arrive to Archaeological Museum… Archaeological Museum is closed
o   7PM: Dinner-time (Greek Salad time)
o   11PM: Bed-time
Hello, pretty- I mean Crete.
Knossos, site of ancient Minoan civilization
Venetian Fortress of Crete
View from the balcony of our hotel in Fira, Santorini 

Tuesday
o   9AM: Wake-up time
o   10AM: Ferry to Santorini (very bumpy ferry-ride to Santorini. Barf bags were dispersed)
o   12 noon: Arrive to Fira, Santorini and get a r, ride to our hotel, Villa Manos, from the owner
o   1PM: Decide to rent a SmartCar for 24 hours (30Euro total is hard to pass  up). Why not, right?
o   2PM-7PM: Drive to the red sand Beaches, black sand beaches, and Ia.
o   7PM: Watch the sunset in Ia, Natalie proposes marriage (see photo)
o   8PM: Eat dinner (chicken with capers and sundried tomatoes and eggplant with feta) at highly recommended Roka. Delicious.
o   10PM: return to hotel for bed-time



Ia, Santorini, quite possibly the most beautiful place I have ever seen. 
Note plaque between us.

Wednesday
o   10AM-1PM: Burn the extra gas we bought (SmartCars use practically NO gas)
o   2PM-5PM: Embark on our 20Euro Volcano/Hot Spring tour
o   Inexplicably angry when we had to pay 2 euro to climb the Sanotrini volcano
o   The hot springs had to be reached by swimming through 60°F water and the “hot springs” were about 80°F (Basically we paid to do a polar bear swim and at one point, swam through what felt like one of those I-think-someone-peed-a-lot-right-here areas)
o   I don’t know how they get away with advertising this is a hot spring tour
o   6PM: Make-your-own Greek Salad time in Natalie and Shelagh’s room of Hotel Villa Manos
o   7PM-11PM: Major chill-time because it was too cold to go out (Yes, too cold. In Greece. In April)
The lagoon of the Volcanic Island we visited and hiked
Thursday
o   10AM: Walk into town like the married couple that we are
o   4PM: Embark on our 7 hour Ferry ride from Fira, Santorini to Athens
o   Midnight: Arrive to our crappy hostel (Athens International Youth Hostel), which has one key for every room (note these are hostel dorm rooms)
Friday
o   9AM: Wake-up time
o   10AM: Check-in at Athens Airport and find out our first flight is delayed and we won’t make our connecting flight so they book us on a flight that makes our layover 3 hours longer. Natalie gets scary and mom-like. 
o   9PM : Hello again, Madrid. I missed you… umm… be right back!

Ciao, Greece. 

Saturday
o   6AM: Wake-up time
o   8AM: Mi padre arrives to Madrid Barajas Airport for his first time in Europe!!
o   8AM-2PM: Drive to Granada, Spain
o   TO BE CONTINUED